NORTH SULAWESI INFORMATION PAGES

Manado - Bunaken - Tangkoko - Minahasa - Sangihe/Talaud - Gorontalo - Togians

Gorontalo

Visitors to Gorontalo no longer have to travel overland. Regular flights now connect Gorontalo with the outside world. Daily flights are available from Jakarta via Makassar (Ujung Pandang) to Gorontalo with Lion Air and Sriwijaya Airlines. Many international flights arrive in Jakarta.

From Manado, Sriwijaya Air and Merpati Airlines fly a couple of times a week to Gorontalo. Schedules often change, so better check before. Manado is directly linked internationally to Singapore by Silk Air (a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines) and to Davao in the Philippines by Merpati and Sriwijaya.

If you prefer to travel overland, private transport can be arranged in Manado with a driving time of about 9 hours. Alternatively, you could go by bus; Manado to Gorontalo takes about 10 hours; Fajar Indah is a recommended company. Roads are mostly in good condition, with a few small dirt and rock sections under repair. Your schedule shouldn't be too tight. Sometimes buses are delayed because of flat tires or engine troubles. Better spend at least one night in Gorontalo before moving on by bus or boat. The city is quite pretty, clean and very friendly with beautiful old colonial buildings.

Accommodation: Not only Backpackers will find the Hotel Melati comfortable enough and with more English (and Dutch) spoken (by Pak Alex, if he's around) than in most other hotels in Gorontalo. Address: Jl. Gajah Mada No. 33. Phone: (+62) 435 822934. E-mail: avelberg@hotmail.com.
Newly renovated Hotel Yulia has air-conditioning, cable TV and hot water. Rates are a good value.
Next door is a much more luxurious option, Quality Hotel Gorontalo, where some staff speak English.

-Recommendation-

Gorontalo Oasis Hotel

Although nestled in the heart of Gorontalo City, Gorontalo Oasis Hotel is a world away. At its center is a grove of giant sago palms surrounding a pool of natural spring water. Light breezes from the mountains rustle the bamboo. Fragrant flowers perfume the night air. Rooms come with a single queen or two twin beds, air conditioning, hot water shower, international cable television, mini bar, and underwater photo print. The fastest Internet connection in Gorontalo is available throughout the Oasis. Miguel's Diving has its office here.
Address: Jl. Agus Salim No 29, Gorontalo City

Email: gorontalo.oasis@yahoo.com
Tel/Fax: (+62) 852 4004 2027

Scuba diving has been available for several years in Gorontalo with dive season being November to April. Miguel's Diving has its office at the new Gorontalo Oasis Hotel in Jl. Agus Salim No 29. With its new custom-built speedboat, seven dive sites are within only a ten-minute boat ride from town. With over 20 dive sites from which to choose, certified divers can enjoy dramatic coral walls, multiple pinnacles, caverns, muck, shallow coral gardens and two wrecks. One important feature of diving there is the continental wall of Sulawesi, which comes within a few meters of the coastline, bringing deep blue water right to shore. Having some of the most dense and diverse hard coral growth in the Indo-Pacific region, Gorontalo also has a growing list of new, undescribed or endemic species. The huge, surreal Salvador Dali sponge can only be found in Gorontalo. The provincial government has just published a top quality book of underwater photos taken there by three of Asia's best marine photojournalists. Information on the book Gorontalo: Hidden Paradise is available through the Miguel's Diving web site.

Exchanging foreign currency is difficult in Gorontalo. The notes have to be brandnew, clean and unfolded!

Going from Manado to Palu/Central Sulawesi by bus takes around 18 hours. Most travellers prefer the route through the Togian Islands.

The Togian (Togean) Islands

When crossing Sulawesi from South to North or North to South most travellers now choose for a stopover of at least several days at the Togian Islands. The Togians are a picturesque archipelago of 56 islands and inlets, located in the Tomini Bay. Formed by volcanic activity, the islands are covered by lush rainforest and surrounded by ancient coral reef formations. Both the terrestrial and marine ecosystems teem with exotic wildlife - much of which is extremely rare or endangered. The reefs and coastal areas provide habitat and breeding areas for hawksbill turtle, the green turtle and the dugong. Togian forests and skies are filled with exotic creatures such as the Togian Macaque, the babirusa, the Sulawesi Hornbill, and hanging parrots. Within this tropical paradise, 37 villages provide bright spots of gaiety and culture of several ethnicities, including the Bobongko, Togian, Suluan and the Bajau.

How to get there:

(Updated February 2007)
There are three weekly connections from Gorontalo to the Togians now. Here's the schedule:

	Gorontalo - Wakai		Wakai - Ampana		Ampana - Wakai		Wakai - Gorontalo
	Dep	Arr	Dep	Arr	Dep	Arr	Dep	Arr
Monday					10:00	15:00	16:00	6:00
Tuesday								6:00
Wednesday	21:00
Thursday		11:00	12:00	15:00
Friday	20:00
Saturday		7:00	8:00	11:00
Sunday					10:00	15:00	16:00

Ships: KM. Puspita - KM. Tuna Tomini

Price: Rp. 70,000 - 100,000 pp, depending on ship.
Please note: Schedules are changing frequently, so no guarantees possible. Not even Pak Alex at Melati Hotel always knows the exact schedule, so better try to find out yourself.

There is a ferry from Gorontalo to Pagimana/Central Sulawesi every other evening. From Pagimana by bemo, car, bus or anything to Ampana (4 to 6 hours). Stay one night in Ampana and take one of the boats to the Togians the next morning (none on Fridays!). The Black Marlin Dive Centre can arrange charters from Bunta (half way from Pagiamana to Ampana) in about 2-3 hrs to Kadidiri.
Alternatively you can travel to Ampana via Luwuk: from Manado by plane (twice a week: Monday and Saturday) or Pelni ship to Luwuk, then by bus on to Pagimana and Ampana. If you travel this way you can stay for a couple of days at the Maleo Cottages near Luwuk. Yani and her French husband Jerome are great hosts who can arrange everything for you: from snorkeling, diving and trekking to sailing and trips to Banggai.
You can charter a boat from Marisa/North Sulawesi to the Togians or the other way round. Be aware that weather conditions can change very fast in this part of the world and that these small boats do not have any navigational equipment.

POSO UPDATE January 2008:
As far as I know there have been no major tensions in the area since more than a year now so it should be considered safe to travel.

For most recent information please call the following number:
Melati Hotel, Gorontalo (ask for Pak Alex): (+62) 435 822934

Accommodation and Diving
The Togian Islands offer the unique opportunity for both divers and snorkelers to explore all 3 types of coral reef: fringe, barrier and atoll. There is a wide selection of dive sites from gentle slope to dramatic drop offs, perfect for beginners and experienced alike with some deeper dives for the advanced diver. Highlights: Atolls (3 in all), Una-Una (active volcano), B24 World War II bomber wreck.

From simple cottage style homestays to quite luxurious dive resorts the Togian Islands offer a good variety of accommodation:

Most upmarket is the Italian run Walea Dive Resort with rates of US$ 60 per person and night (full board), or US$ 120 with two dives.

Another PADI Dive Centre is the Black Marlin Dive Centre at Wakai Cottages/Kadidiri. Rooms rates Rp. 135,000 (Standard) and Rp. 175,000 (Deluxe) with meals, plus 10% tax. €22,50/ daytime dive, €27.50/night dive. PADI dive courses. Discounts for longer stays. Black Marlin can accept traveller cheques (USD, Euro) and even credit cards (Master, VISA).

The Kadidiri Paradise has recently upgraded both its cottages and dive equipment. Several good reports from travelers; similar rates as Black Marlin.

Many good comments about the Fadhila Cottages in Katupat. Good food, great people, Rp. 85,000 per day and person including 3 meals. Diving is possible.

In Malenge try the friendly Malenge Indah.

Lestari Kadidiri has recently re-opened (info from Dec. 2007) and is a real bargain at Rp 60.000 per night full board, including free boat trips to nearby islands for snorkeling trips. Click here for PDF file.

The Togian Island Retreat in Bomba has recently got kind of mixed comments and I would be grateful for updates from people who have been there in the last few months. Prices from US$ 15 per day and person with fullboard, more luxurious and expensive cottages are also available. One dive is US$ 25, with discounts for multiple dives.

There is no possibility to exchange money/traveller cheques at the Togians, so take enough cash with you. Some of the dive centers might be able to accept tc's and even credit cards but please check with them before.